After spending the better part of the last two decades behind a cheese counter, I have learned many things. One of them is that people really love the crystals in their cheese—they call them "crunchy bits," "flavor crystals," or erroneously "salt crystals."
For the most part, the crystals that form in firm cheeses that are over six months old are called tyrosine. In cheddar especially, there are other crystals, but let's just focus on tyrosine. Tyrosine is a naturally occurring amino acid in cheese. As proteins break down in the cheese, they release amino acids. These amino acids naturally crystallize. The crystals have no flavor but add a pleasant contrast to the chew. Parmigiano Reggiano is probably the most common example of a cheese with a large amount of tyrosine that we are all familiar with.
From a producer or grading standpoint, these crystals are imperative. When you are evaluating something like a Gruyère, Comté or Pleasant Ridge Reserve, you use the crystals to guide you. You are generally tasting a cheese that is around six months to a year old. You are asking yourself how much tyrosine has developed versus how much flavor. If at six months you have a cheese with a lot of flavor and a lot of tyrosine, you can assume this cheese has a shorter arc and will need to be eaten in the next six months to a year, as opposed to a cheese that has a mild flavor and a small amount of tyrosine at the one-year mark. This cheese may be an ideal candidate for aging to the two- or three-year mark.
There are now cheeses that are being developed to highlight this love of tyrosine. A cheese like OG Kristal out of Belgium is one of the best examples. This is a traditional Gouda-style cheese with washed curds, adding to the sweetness and elasticity of the curds. What makes it unique is its almost Parmigiano-like density of crystals—they almost feel like they burst under your chew. This cheese comes from a father and son team in western Belgium at Kaasaffineurs Van Tricht. They are responsible for such other favorites as Funky Monk, Drunk Monk, Barista, and OG Goat. We are lucky to get these cheeses through Maker to Monger, an importer Zach has been working with for his entire career.
This cheese is remarkable in its contrast between the densely creamy paste with its classic butterscotch notes that are interrupted by the bold crystal texture. Come snack on some with us soon. It will not be in the case for long.
